Harry's Bar, Venice
Venue: Harry’s Bar, Venice Recipe: Gordon’s, Noilly Prat, Stirred, olives Price: reassuringly expensive WBM score: 89/100
Harry’s Bar in Venice is one of the must-visit destinations of the true cocktail fan. It was here, as we all know, that the Bellini was invented. What’s less well known is that they also do a fantastic Martini.
The place is a classic old-world bar, with white-jacketed waiters and wood aplenty. You need to know where to find it, as it’s not on the main drag, nor does it advertise it’s presence with anything more than an appropriately subtle engraved glass panel in each of the doors. Door policy is strict – no shorts, no trainers, no T-shirts, just as the discerning drinker would expect. If that doesn’t keep the riff-raff tourist out, then the eye-watering prices will do.
But if you don’t realise that you’re not paying for a mere drink, but for the legendary environment, the discrete but efficient service, and the chance to sit in one of Hemmingway’s favourite drinking joints – then you shouldn’t be here.
Martinis are served not in the normal V-glass, as you would expect in the epitome of all things classic, but in a small round-bottomed tumbler, more akin to a piece of a chemistry set than barware. The standard mix is good, good size measures and very dry – I’m sure Hemmingway would approve. I think the bar staff really appreciate the chance to make something other than the obligatory Bellini. The biggest surprise was the use of Gordon’s, normally considered a cooking gin by gin snobs like us.
Drinks are served with bar snacks – not the usual nuts or wasabi peas, but proper hot snacks such as ham and cheese croquettes. Harry’s does good food from a limited menu, but that’s not why most folk come here. It’s a real taste of history, from when drinking was regarded as an art.
Highly recommended.
